First Timer's Guide to Beirut & Lebanon
Updated: October 2023
Lebanon is a complicated country, caught in the middle of even more complicated neighbors. Nonetheless, the people have this air of ease and casual style. They don't shy away from their painful past, but embrace it. I haven't felt unsafe here once. In fact, I've felt really welcomed and people are genuinely proud of their country and want you to see the best parts of it. Being here has changed my perception, and I hope to debunk some negative narratives and headlines we see in the news. The Lebanese really love US travelers, which is kind of rare around the world!
But first, a few helpful tips and highlights when considering a trip to Lebanon (or have me plan it!):
Currency: When I first arrived in 2017, the Lebanese Lira was used interchangeably with US currency at a fixed 1,500 LBP to $1 USD. NOW, it’s so been devalued so much and changes frequently from $1 to up to 90,000 Lira. If you come, bring USD with you and exchange only if you need to at a place that exchanges based on the real rate, not at the bank. Right now, you can use USD everywhere again and prices have gone back up to pre-pandemic (as of my trip in Sept 2023). Ask your hotel to help you and get the real local insight at the current time. If you come with a bit of USD on you, you will avoid additional bank fees, and the very inaccurate bank exchange rates. Also you can use credit card at places and hotels. Have the dollars for easy spending, cabs, and shops. Most will appreciate if you pay in cash.
Language: Naturally, the predominately spoken language is Arabic, however, the majority speak English and French in the city and tourist areas. Lots of times, if you are stuck, dust off that high school French and charades doesn't hurt. You will be fine getting by on English, so don't stress.
Getting Around Beirut: Taxi or even Uber is widely used again after the crisis. With Uber, you can regulate how much you pay (or use cash) vs. haggling with a taxi driver, plus enter in the exact location you need to go. There aren’t really ‘addresses’ per say in Lebanon. Sounds weird, but it’s the way of the country and organized chaos.
Another option is "service" rides. You'll notice that everyone is constantly honking at you. Not cause you're a hottie (you may be) but they are offering you a lift. You have to lean down and tell the driver the general area or street you need to get to. They will either accept (group share so others may be in or join) or drive off if it's not on their way. You can also walk a lot around Beirut in certain areas like Downtown, Hamra, or Mar Mikhael just bear in mind that the rules of the road are usually ignored and be aware.
Getting Around Lebanon: This one is more complicated. There are inexpensive local buses that go to many places, however, as a newbie/tourist, you'll likely want to go the car route. You can hire an individual to tour you around (even Uber goes many places from Beirut; just arrange a return because that’s less the case) or join a group tour. I would suggest arranging through a trusted group like Sirena at Wonders of Lebanon or Nikhal - also found on Expedia - if you feel more comfortable confirming there and paying online quickly. If you want me to create a bespoke itinerary, I have car companies that can arrange a vehicle and a driver based on your comfort level of driving.
Pro Tip: On Sundays, a majority of the shops and businesses are closed. Restaurants and bars are still open (some may close for mid-day and re-open at 7:30/8 pm, so check the times), but don't plan on visiting Bourj Hammoud, shopping or certain activities that day, because you'll be disappointed. Just ask ahead any tour operator or hotel. Most won't operate a tour on a day where the experience will not be good anyway.
Places to See: Beirut can easily serve as your home base throughout your whole stay. The country is not very large (just shy of the size of Connecticut), so you can do many of the highlights in a day. But, I say you should try to spend an overnight somewhere like a coastal town like Batroun or Sour, traditional guest house or even in the mountain area close to the wineries if you have the time. Highlights include:
Bekaa Valley & Mount Lebanon - Wine country & ski resorts when in season (Faraya is truly stunning when it's blanketed by snow, or conversely, green hillsides in summer stay at Terrebrune Hotel with their infinity pool overlooking Roman ruins)
Baalbeck -Beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site to visit and best to couple with a visit to Anjar - stay at Al Haush agri-farm bed and breakfast
Byblos - Said to be the oldest, continuously inhabited city dating back 7,000 years
Tripoli - Coastal town to the north with a small chain of islands that you can go to in season to enjoy the beach
Batroun - An hour north of Beirut, this coastal town has wineries, breweries, and a surfing scene; stay at Villa Paradiso, Breathe Guest House, Beit al Batroun or Abdelli Terraces
Saida or Sidon - Another ancient coastal town with an old souk and sea castle
Tyre - Also referred to as Sour, not only does this have one of Lebanon's five UNESCO sites, it has a happening beach scene that you would think you were in Greece or south of France
Jeita Grotto - The most impressive limestone caves I have ever seen; unfortunately, the policy is no photography, so you have to go see for yourself
Hiking & Nature - There's plenty of hiking places and outdoor activities; check out Baatara Waterfall and ways to book those hiking activities here
Free Walking Tour Beirut - Weekly tour that you should sign up to get a nice overview of downtown and history lesson
Accommodations: Best areas to stay and be among the action - Mar Mikhael, Gemmayze, Hamra, Badaro or Downtown Beirut. There are some recognizable hotel brands like Radisson Blu, Four Seasons, Kempinski, Ramada and InterContinental. Non-chain options I would highly suggest are...
Arthuas Beirut, Hotel Lost, Beit Tamanna - all in the best parts of Gemmayze
The Smallville located in Badaro neighborhood and popular street of bars and restaurants
Hamra Urban Gardens with a rooftop pool for those hot summer days (same owner as Saifi)
New - Kintsugi is a nice boutique hotel in the heart of Mar Mikhael - a hip neighborhood to be based
Baffa House - tucked away in the weaving side streets of Mar Mikhael with a lovely garden cafe restaurant
Guest houses curated by L'HOTE Libanais
Dar Alma - Tyre boutique hotel with seafront rooms
Souk El Tayeb has a few b&b style "homes" called Beit around Lebanon that are worth checking out; Beit Douma has to be my favorite so far which is a short drive from Batroun
Spend some time in the Chouf at Nomads Nature & Nurture for a guesthouse stay (must love cats & dogs), Bkerzay (upscale option known for their pottery), Deir al Oumara, Mir Amin Palace or Bouyouti Hotel.
Where to Dine & Drink in Beirut: Many restaurants and businesses are not easy to find because they don't typically have a website or aren't listed on Google Maps. For the Westerner that I am, I was initially miffed of where to find all the information and where to go. Toters is their local Yelp/GrubHub type, so download the app or visit the website. It's a great guide to dining in Lebanon and specifically Beirut. A few favorites of mine so far...
Dining
Ferdinand - Great spot for gourmet burgers and cocktails in Hamra
Santana's located in Monot - a chic neighborhood that's a great stroll
Abdel Wahab - Noteworthy Lebanese restaurant in Monot (next to Santana's) with a great ambiance and décor
Al Falamanki - Traditional Lebanese dishes in a green garden setting
Baron - Amazing variety of cuisine and the best selection for vegetarians (*very expensive)
Enab - Local cuisine on Armenia Street with nice ambiance
Villa Badaro - A lovely indoor and outdoor dining space with great dishes
Mario E Mario - Delicious Italian with a rooftop terrace in season
Ahi Poke Beirut - Delicious, fresh ingredients and build your own bowl
Mayrig - Very good spot for mezze dishes to share and sit outside on their terrace
Mezyan - Delicious dishes in a space that you won't notice as the entrance is through what appears to be an office building then through that corridor
Liza - Featured on Vogue.com and Condé Nast Traveler
Tawlet - Local chefs from around Lebanon prepare their daily lunch buffets; they offer cooking classes so ask in advance and visit the Souk El Tayeb market on Wednesdays and Saturdays at Beirut Souks
Coffee & Drinks
Kalei Coffee Co.
Aaliya's Books
Sip
Urbanista
Ales & Tales
Brick's
Dragonfly
The Jerry Experience
Attic Bar
The Next Whiskey Bar & Tota (next to each other)
Brew - Brand new brewery, locally produced beer
Kissproof
Central Station Boutique Bar
Gouraud to Armenia Street - You cannot go wrong with walking up and down this street from the Mosque to Bourj Hammoud area; plenty of bars and nightlife!
Nightclubs: Skybar, Seven Sisters, Grand Factory, Garten, Iris - A club on top of a warehouse that's worth a visit to get a taste of the scene
This post will continue to be updated as things can change! Thanks for dropping by and spreading the good word about Lebanon. Join my monthly newsletter here or learn about Trip Whisperer planning services.