Trip Report: Paris to Fairytale Alsace
Thanksgiving is a great time to travel abroad for Americans. If you have the flexibility to leave over the long weekend, international flights tend to be more reasonable. This year, I took the opportunity to add on personal travel before a work trip. We hopped on a flight to Paris Friday, November 25th for two nights in Paris, two in Champagne, two in Alsace, and one final night in Lyon before parting ways.
To be able to hit all these spots on a shorter timeline, we opted to road trip. I’m familiar with the roads in France and find the French are such orderly drivers outside of Paris, instead of being bound by train schedules and hauling lots of luggage.
In early December, the Christmas markets are already set up and the crowds aren’t in full swing yet. It’s a great time to go since the weather is still mild.
For anyone looking to replicate the trip and experience more of France, please allow me to arrange the hotels, top restaurants and more with a bespoke itinerary. Each trip is custom and planned for your whims and wishes!
Review the Trip Whisperer travel process here.
Paris
On this trip, I traveled with two friends who had their hearts set on similar shiny objects and foodie goals - shopping, top dining, and drinks around town.
Arriving early in the city, we dropped our bags at our hotel Kimpton St. Honoré, ideally located in Paris and has amazing rooftop views. If you ever want to do an early check-in, book with a travel advisor and avoid peak travel times, since room inventory will be challenging coming off an overnight flight. However, we loved the spa rooms and changing areas to refresh upon arrival. The hotel rooms were great and a unique blend of two old buildings. Our bathroom was large (especially by city standards) and ideal for three women to maneuver. The breakfast area and downstairs bar were chic with a great setup. Highly recommend it for clients headed to Paris.
Taking a walk in the cool air helped us stay awake as we made our way to Le Bon Marché to do some shopping damage. The luxury mall was decked out for the holidays and proved easier than the lines extending a block long at the main shops like Gucci, Celine, and Dior for example. Who knew that was a thing now? Wait in line to spend thousands seems odd. That’s our bougie travel hack!
After checking in and getting a much-needed power nap, we ventured out for cocktails and dined at local La Petite Régalade steps from our hotel.
Our crew loves a good lobby bar but do plan ahead in peak season! Be sure to get drinks at Ritz Carlton’s lobby bar Bar Hemingway, Le Bar du Bristol, Le Botaniste, Jacques's Bar at The Hoxton or Les Ambassadeurs at Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel. All amazing scenes and some of the world’s best cocktails.
The following day we brunched at the quintessential Plaza Athénée’s Le Relais. We perched ourselves in our seats and were immediately greeted with a friendly smile as well as a bubbly aperitif. With Veuve Rosé Brut brimming in our glasses, we dined and enjoyed amazing people-watching.
Fully satiated, we strolled out on the luxury shop-studded street and dropped in the Dior Exhibit. It was unexpectedly awesome and highly recommend it. We didn’t have advance tickets or wait very long.
On the last night, we got all decked out to go to dinner at BeefBar — selected for its former occupant La Fermette Marbeuf and maintained Belle Époque Art Nouveau "1900 room" — followed by an awesome showing at Crazy Horse around the corner. Be ready for some beautiful female bodies, stringy outfits, and acrobats!
Champagne
A short drive from Paris, we arrived at Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa. As we pulled up, our gracious greeter helped assemble our things and get us checked in. As soon as we got out of the damp, cold air, the hotel felt like a warm blanket wrapped around us. The fireplace going, elegant Christmas décor throughout, and pleasing color tones. The hotel felt like our very own living room with everything we needed within steps - a spa, Michelin-star restaurant, fireplaces & cozy sitting areas, outdoor infinity pool, bar, and lovely dine-in breakfast with a view.
The attentive team had scheduled spa treatments for our arrival and a full day of Champagne House tours & tastings, followed by an exquisite dining experience at Le Royal. We never wanted it to end! If you can afford to allow for more than two nights, you should stay longer and relax. It was just the ticket we needed after two full days in Paris.
The Champagne day stops: Veuve Clicquot, Pommery, lunch at Le Jardin, and Leclerc Briant - same owners of the Royal Champagne Hotel, a perfect pairing!
Alsace
Moving on to the Alsace region, dotted with fairytale towns and half-timbered homes, which inspired Disney. We arrived at the oldest Christmas market in France, Strasbourg. During the holidays if you plan to overnight, be sure to stay just outside the city center since a lot is blocked off to cars and there is a checkpoint to head into the pedestrian-designated area. Our bags had to be quickly searched in a public setting, which didn’t sit well with me. That can easily be avoided by staying on the outskirts, and it’s small, walkable city.
Do a big stop in Colmar. It’s worth a full day or overnight. The Petite Venice area is delightful and the two Michelin-starred restaurant JY’s was out of this world. We loved every bite and recommend staying at the hotel connected to it: L'Esquisse Hotel & Spa Colmar - MGallery.
FYI, there’s no such thing as too much foie gras. We tested the theory.
As you venture to more of Alsace, build in time to visit places like Obernei, Ribeauvillé, Riquewihr, Kayserberg, Turckheim, Sélestat and Eguisheim - a few of the many towns to visit. Obernei had the loveliest town center with many amazing bakeries and chocolatiers to choose from. Build in time for Eguisheim, which is said to have inspired Beauty & the Beast. Bob and weave around town to be rewarded by the wine Alsatian shops and winery Wolfberger by the town entrance. We took plenty of bottles to go!
As the darkness was creeping in early as usual, we made our way to our next place: Chateau d'Isenbourg & Spa. The grounds are set on their winery with a pool and a lovely restaurant in the cellar. It was reasonably priced. It’s too bad we didn’t have longer to appreciate. Although extremely cozy in winter, it would be great to go back in summer - check out that last picture. They have two pools - indoor and outdoor and the winery landscape overlooking Rouffach - magnifiqué.
Lyon
On our final stop, we arrived in Lyon, our car overflowing with luggage, wine, and very content travelers. We drove along the river to arrive at the InterContinental Lyon - Hotel Dieu with a beautiful historic facade and building designed in the 18th century. The interior courtyard had a Christmas market and a gorgeous decorated tree. We arrive just in time to freshen up and go to the lobby bar “The Dome.” And as it’s labeled, we were in awe of the incredible towering dome above us with two giant Nutcrackers guarding us.
While we only had a short stay over, we made the most of it by dining out at a local spot and making our way to a local speakeasy called L' Antiquaire tucked away on the second floor for a nightcap.
Mougins
Small world, my friend from Beirut is now living in Mougins, just 15 minutes from Cannes and my conference. The short overnight with her was just what I needed before the big week which happened to be the World Cup. We had ourselves an ex-pat party with her friends and were able to polish off the Champagne and Alsatian wine just in time! The town is lovely and cannot think of a better place for her to put her boys in school to keep up with their French while jetting off to the beach or to ski in the nearby Alps. The end!
